Sunday, June 17, 2007

Contesting with the Côte

Nice is nice:

When arriving in Nice the first thing to do is ask yourself "Do you feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?" The second thing do is make sure that no one heard you kick out a bad Clint impression, then answered the question truthfully, because if the answer is anywhere near "No", then do not stay at Hotel Pastoral. It is a hostel full of "Character"... or something that makes it "unique". Drop your stuff off, don't touch anything, and head down the main drag towards the beach (if it is still under construction, as it was during our stay, don't worry, they won't start bashing around until 2:30 or 3 in the old AM, this fun can be heard from Pastoral). Climb the Colline du Chateau and after catching your breath and resting your legs (I seem to be either out of shape or permenantly exhauted; I choose the later as it makes me feel better about myself when I see all the old ladies that have made it to the top of these monster hikes) gaze out over the hills of the coast, covered in a beautiful red that lines the roof tops of the Nice houses. From the top of the world decide which beach you want to plant your flag in for the afternoon. Below at the water's edge the waves crash in on Rock covered beaches. Don't worry, the rocks heat up in the sun and most people pay handsomely for this type of spa message. Later listen to the tourists tourist-it-up as they complain about the "Stupid rocks! Ruining their Beach!" Spend more time at the beach then we did. Enjoy the soft sea water of the Mediterranean. Don't look for topless bathers; you won't like want you see. Don't take a towel, lie right on the rocks, and later let the sun dry you off, then throw your sandels back on and try it all over again at your next beach of choice. In the evening walk the promenade with your favorite beverage. Listen to the street performers, watch the roller-bladers, and take on as many French conversations as you can; the people of Nice are... nice, and will want to hear of your travels, in your Canadian accent. And feel free to allow yourself to protect the attractive American girls from the late night punks "Hey, Pal, she's with me, got it". More often then not they turn out to be all talk and you'll end up laughing it up and they'll join you crew, but more importantly, everyone loves a hero. The rest of your time in Nice should be spent wandering the streets of the Old town, taking in the church scene, and visiting the outdoor restaurants and cafes. And make certain to frequent the bakeries (this stands for all of France). Try it all; the baguettes, the croissants, the pain au chocolate (oh heaven). Nice is the start of every good Holiday on the Cote d'Azur (also listen to the Johnny Favorite Orchestra's song, same name, while along the Riviera)


Slacking in St. Raphael:

The train ride is 45 minutes to Frances Florida, and the definition of relaxation along the Cote. We arrived to find a slow-paced, restful beach town, lined with resorts that open up onto the sandy beaches (the complainers are out of luck here, no rocks). The average age of the St. Raphael's scene appears to be significantly older then that of the Nice promenade. It feels like the R&R atmosphere of retirement, and I loved every second of it. The streets are beautiful, but it's entirely possible to miss the town itself as the comfort of the sandy coast can swallow you up for an entire afternoon.


The Fame of Cannes:

Rome has its Ruins, Amsterdam its Red Lights, Pisa its tower; Cannes is all about its festivals. Try as you will to stay on the wide, sandy beaches, or tour the promenade along the coast; inevitably you will be drawn to the Palais des Festivals. You can feel the movie star vibe still lingering from the spring Festival. Wander along the park in front of the theatre and try to find the hand prints of your favorite big names. Once you have had your fill (which may take a while if you are traveling with Neil or John) climb the Tour du Mt. Chevalier and see how Cannes compares to its sister cities along the Riviera. You can only leave knowing you will be back.

Monte Carlo's Money in Monaco:

Head in the other direction and find the glitz and glamer of the rich and famous in Monaco. Spend the €10 to get into the Casino so you too can feel like you've made it to the final table in Super Nintendo's Vegas Stakes. Let the roulettes table slowly and painfully take your €25, it's worth the excitement. Leave the Casino before you have to (need to eat right... and eventually leave Europe, so don't lose it all...). Walk any part of Monte Carlo Raceway and wish that the Ferraries and Maseratties that fill the cits streets were yours. Window shop along the docks for the biggest and best in Yachts (I didn't know it, but turns out I really, really want a yacht). Pay €3 to get into The Collection de Voitures Anciennes de SAS Le Prince de Monaco (turns out I now want to be a Prince too). Whether or not you are a car connoisseur, you can't deny a century of the world's best. Don't get caught in the same storm we did (this is an excuse to hide out in the Casino). Realize that Monaco is definitely a place you could live in, and live well.


The most important part of your trip to the Cote d'Azur is to see it. Take the train up and down the beautiful coast, and watch the Riviera reveal its secrets. Stop everywhere. Sample the food, the beaches, the promenades. And above all, if nothing else, the most important thing is to go for more then 3 days. Now I ask myself the last question "When can I go back?"

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